When I decided to move to Pune after living in Mumbai for almost a decade, my friends told me that I would miss the food. But I was no stranger to Pune. I had been visiting this laidback cousin of Mumbai for a while, and I was familiar with its quiet cafes and buzzy breweries. I knew where to get the iconic Irani chai with bun maska and the hole-in-the-wall spots selling the best bhakhri mutton in town. I was sure I would find my pace and peace in all Pune offered.
That was two years ago, and I was wrong. Pune is much more than we see online or during short weekend visits.
Prasad Thergaonkar, co-founder of food curation platform The Hedonist | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
What changed?
Post-lockdown, the city’s culinary scene is filled with new energy. Armed with new concepts and new formats, Pune is itching to beat other cities at the culinary games. Prasad Thergaonkar, co-founder of food curation platform The Hedonist, which has been bringing culinary experiences to Pune since 2020, explains, “Post lockdown, the industry was initially in recovery mode and unwilling to experiment. However, several young chefs were opening specialty outlets such as Dohiti (artisanal breads), The Pig Boss (bi-monthly popups with an exclusive pork-based menu), etc. Korean guesthouses opened to public leading to a host of K restaurants and most importantly 5-stars started doing popupsAnd it became clear that people’s tastes had changed. That’s when the bigger players also started joining in.”
Dishes at Gingko | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
One of these young chefs is Siddhi Gokhale, who along with her co-founder Brehadeesh Kumar runs Gingko, serving a crisp Japanese menu in Kothrud. Brehadeesh, who graduated in Japanese language and literature was clear about his future: either become a chef or a translator. However, after spending a year-and-a-half training at Kikunoi Honten, a centuries old 3-Michelin ryotei (Kaiseki restaurant) in Kyoto, he realised that cooking is an art form, and went on to kickstart Gingko.
Siddhi Gokhale and Brehadeesh Kumar of Gingko | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Gingko is popular with the expat and international student community, and is perfect for those looking for “home-style food.” But it is not just the international crowd. “Punekars are trying new dishes, and there has been a big shift from the conservative food choices. Food delivery, affordability, and exposure to the world outside have been key in this process,” says Siddhi. “I want Indians to know and appreciate Japanese food beyond the stereotypes and look at Japanese food for what it is, a simplistic and symbolic art that’s approached complexly through science,” adds Brehadeesh.
However, it is not always about international cuisines. With successful stints at Mumbai’s The Bombay Canteen and Dubai’s Folly by Nick & Scott, Abhishek Joshi started WeIdliwale with the simple idea of dunking idlis in chicken curry just like he did at his grandmother’s house.
Idli mutton saru at WeIdliwale | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“I believe that we were only trying to play catch up with the west (and east) for the longest time. That, I think, has changed; we are seeing more chefs and restauranteurs looking inward and more at what’s personal to us. Be it someone celebrating regional Indian or someone who has spent a lot of time in Japan and is now back putting his journey on a plate. And this has created more curiosity and upped the game for everyone,” says Abhishek.
Abhishek Joshi, WeIdliwale | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Changing demographics and tastes
Chef Vardaan Marwah known for his time at Bastian – At the Top in Mumbai and Quora in Pune recalls how his friends would drive to Mumbai for a bite and a drink at (now shut) The Living Room by Masque. “Earlier, people from Pune would travel all the way to Mumbai to dine at fancy restaurants and bars. They want that in Pune now, so more restaurants and bars are popping up,” says Vardaan.
Chef Vardaan Marwah | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
It is no surprise that Chef Niyati Rao, head chef and partner at Ekaa, an ingredient-first Mumbai restaurant ranked number 98 in The World’s 50 Best, collaborated with Ritz-Carlton, Pune, to showcase her new menu which is an ode to various kingdoms around the world. From Marathas to the Egyptians, there is a hint of the prominent flavours and techniques from each era. “We have a lot of patrons from Pune visiting Ekaa regularly. They are ready now, more than ever, for newer experiences, so we wanted to take Ekaa to them,” says Niyati.
A dish from Ekaa’s pop-up at Ritz Carlton, Pune | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Part of the dynamic team behind Pune’s hottest bar, Cobbler & Crew, and Juju Bar, serving playful Mexican dishes, Vijeta Singh explains, “Five years ago, Pune’s food scene was more traditional, with a focus on local and regional cuisines. Concepts which offer unique and experimental dining experiences might not have been as readily accepted back then.” But today, Pune’s food scene welcomes such ideas, reflecting a growing openness to culinary experimentation and new dining experiences. Brand owners are more willing to take risks and do out-of-the-box experiences than traditional multicuisine approaches.
Rakshay Dhariwal, founder and MD of Pass Code Hospitality, chose Pune for his new outing in May 2023, Mister Merchant’s, which does a fresh take on Middle Eastern and Indian food. He believes that Pune is the most exciting city in the country for F&B. “We wanted to provide a cuisine that was missing in the city — a fresh take on Middle Eastern and Indian food and explore the overlap between the two. Pune made perfect sense as the city for the first Mister Merchant’s because of its colonial history and the active part it played in trade — which is what Mister Merchant’s story celebrates,” says Rakshay.
Tonkatsu ramen at Soy Como Soy | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Taste meets technique
There has also been an increase in knowledgeable local producers like Amol from Hirai Farms, who is growing high-quality ingredients and artisanal crops. It makes it easier for home-grown brands to bring the world closer to home. But more than the sourcing, educating the new audience takes time and patience. When Soy Como Soy was launched in May 2022, Sandy Singh, partner at Iceberg Hospitality (that owns Prems, Pune’s iconic restaurant as well as Soy Como Soy), and his team knew introducing Nikkei cuisine would not be easy.
Sandy Singh | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
This cuisine is a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian elements, and is known for its funky flavours. Initially, they would send out complimentary trial portions of dishes such as of Buta no Soga Yaki and Scallop Tiradito (both featuring Aji Amarilo which is one of the most important spices of the Nikkei cuisine) for guests to understand the flavour profile. Sandy remembers, “We were trying to balance different opinions and tastes while sticking to our commitment to dishing out quality culinary experiences.” It took time, but they now have a loyal fanbase in the city. “With sushi becoming the new butter chicken, we have seen families coming in where parents opt for the safer options while the kids are ready to experiment,” he adds.
Poornima Somayaji from Aragma, known for their signature eight-course tasting menu created using local seasonal produce recalls, “Consumer education was an uphill task — the fact that the guest must enjoy a set menu with no a-la-carte was a difficult sell. But soon, our guests became our messengers who spoke about the experience and set the ball rolling for us.”
Soyebi shoyu ramen at Soy Como Soy | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
While the new establishments educate a new audience, stalwarts like Malaka Spice are constantly reinventing. “We have always adapted to change, and in most cases, we propagate it ourselves,” shares Ilvika Chadawarkar, who handles research and business development and is also the daughter of Praful and late chef Cheeru, the founders of Malaka Spice. They grow a lot of the produce at their farm and travel for inspiration. Every new menu has a tasting panel with internal and external members to cater to the evolving tastes of the diners.
Weldiwale | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Stronger together
Most restaurateurs and chefs are taking planned steps to ensure quality is not compromised. Brehadeesh sees a focus on local sourcing, small but top-notch places with attention to detail, and a conducive and compassionate work culture.
A dish at Qora | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The deep sense of pride that Abhishek feels when talking about the future is palpable. “I am fortunate to be in a time where the food scene here in my city is more exciting than ever. You have these young and passionate restaurateurs investing more in the product than just infrastructure, we are seeing more chef-owned and led-brands, a cool cocktail scene is picking up across the city, and we are celebrating more of local. It’s way more personal for everyone than it’s ever been, and the public is loving all of it.”
It is not just the customers, but even the F&B community in Pune “is tighter, more supportive, more honest, less cut-throat than in any other city,” he concludes.
Published - October 04, 2024 02:59 pm IST
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